Penang has always fascinated me with its blend of old and new: a historic trading port, a UNESCO World Heritage city, a thriving centre of commerce and industry, and a home to many cultures, traditions and flavours that have come together over generations. However, Penang is more than its landmarks and famous dishes. Its soul can be found in the people I meet, the stories I hear and the memories shared along the way. This is my journey through Penang and beyond.
"The Chinese people have never demanded a clear separation of the worlds of myth and reality – indeed, they are so closely bound up that it is hard to say where one begins and the other ends." – An Introduction to Oriental Mythology, Clio Whittaker et al
"The moon, along with fine wine and beautiful women, is a favourite topic for the Chinese poets." – Chinese proverb
The story of the mooncake stretches far back into the mists of antiquity. As early as the Shang Dynasty (c. 1600–1046 BC) and the Zhou Dynasty (1046–256 BC), their predecessor, the taishi cake, was already present. Over centuries, mooncakes evolved into a symbolic offering for the Mid-Autumn Festival, a tradition that continues to this very day. Though the classic baked mooncake has endured for thousands of years, the art of mooncake-making has never stood still. It has adapted, innovated and reimagined itself in step with the times.
I have often noticed the crowd waiting to get into Uo Shin on Jalan Macalister whenever I passed by. So when my daughter Jean and I decided to try it for the first time, we thought it best to go early. We arrived around noon, just as lunch was getting started, and were comfortably seated before the crowd began to build.
At the Church of the Assumption, nestled amidst the bustling streets of George Town, the hearts of Louis Michael Martin and Emily Elizabeth Surin became forever entwined. Their love story found its new beginning on 7 August 1926, when Rev. Fr. P. Lerond officiated their marriage. The church would have looked somewhat different then from the one we see today, as it underwent a major renovation in 1928, when two wings were added.
On most afternoons along Campbell Street, a queue often snakes into a pre-war Straits Eclectic shophouse. In Penang, where people are notoriously discerning about food, queues usually mean one of two things: hype or the real deal. Hema Hema, established in 2022, has been around long enough for reputation to settle—and in this case, it feels like the latter.
Wat Buppharam may not appear on every traveller’s must-see list in Penang, but those who step into its tranquil embrace are often rewarded with sacred and unexpected discoveries. Can a silent statue whisper the truth of your wishes? Within its shrine hall rests a humble, one-foot-tall figure known as the “Lifting Buddha”, a sacred icon believed to be able to reveal just that!
I am filled with immense pride to witness the presence of unsung heroes in Penang, individuals driven by a shared belief in uplifting their community. Among them stands Timothy Tye, a beacon of inspiration. Since its inception on 5 January 2003, his Penang Travel Tips website has provided invaluable information on Penang (now extended to cover Malaysia as well as Singapore). Timothy is not only a prominent foodie and YouTuber but is also a passionate advocate for the preservation of Penang Hokkien.
Celebrated by the Chinese on the 15th day of the eighth lunar moon (between September to October), the Mooncake Festival commemorates the overthrow of the Mongols, when the insurgent leaders, by way of smuggling secret messages in mooncakes, called the people to revolt.
Walking into La Vie en Mei Gui Café with my daughter for lunch brought back a rather unexpected memory. At the entrance, you are greeted by Prince William and Kate Middleton, while upstairs at the landing, Queen Elizabeth II stands in regal splendour. Chandeliers hang above, grand floral arrangements fill the rooms, and gilded details sit against lush crimson. British memorabilia completes the setting, with every corner arranged almost like a picture postcard. John H'ng has certainly embraced the theme wholeheartedly.
On Soo Hong Lane, one of George Town's narrowest heritage lanes, stands Gilda, a modern neo-bistro that has captured the hearts of diners with its honest cooking and warm hospitality. After spending an evening there, I realised that the true charm of Gilda goes beyond its striking setting and thoughtfully crafted menu. It is found in the people behind it.
One of the most fascinating things that struck me when I was in Japan in the autumn of 2012 had to be its extraordinary dessert culture. In Nara, my family and I witnessed Nakatanidou showcasing the ancient art of mochi pounding, where skilled artisans rhythmically transformed steaming glutinous rice into soft, delicate confections with astonishing speed and precision. Watching the craftsmen work was mesmerising, a beautiful reminder that in Japan, desserts are often deeply intertwined with tradition, craftsmanship, and theatre.
A life lived with grace, generosity, and an irrepressible artistic spirit
A Beam of Sunlight
There are people who pass through our lives quietly, leaving the faintest ripple on the surface of our days. And then there are those whose presence is like a beam of sunlight, lighting a room simply by being in it. For me, Oon Suan See was one of the latter.