Glorious food

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Having a reputation as a food paradise, be it haute cuisine, or cuisine bourgeoise (hawker fare), Penang offers a heady and exotic mix of delicious cuisine to choose from.

In a word, Penang food is both famous and fabulous. When people mention Penang food, they are more often than not referring to hawker food and coffee shop dining. It is true that some of the hype is overblown but it cannot be denied that Penang is home to many uniquely delicious chow. Ironically, hawkers in other states or towns have been known to pull the crowd by simply advertising their food as hailing from Penang, regardless of its authenticity or quality. Then there are the Penang hawkers who advertise their cuisine as specialties from another state, like Johor bak kut teh, Ipoh chicken and bean sprouts or laksa Kedah. In short, an infinite variety of dishes are yours to savour – all you need to do is pick and choose.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Penang hawker food can be broken down roughly into several varieties, with each being attributable to Penang's multi-cultural character: Nyonya, Chinese, vegetarian, Indian, Malay, Hakka-styled Western, seafood and desserts. Hybrids are also known to exist, and some famous examples are Malay-style chicken rice and char koay teow, and Chinese satay and nasi lemak. The prices are cheap and reasonable.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

With fishing being a major economic activity on the island, Penang is naturally a haven for seafood, and a handful of restaurants have already achieved legendary status among locals and foreigners. Tucked away in remote corners, these eateries are not easy to find without local guidance but are definitely worth the extra effort to seek out.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Desserts play a major role in Penang gastronomy. There are as many varieties as there are races in Penang! To mention a few would do injustice to the rest, so you would just have to let your nose and eyes be your guide. A word of warning though – most local desserts tend to be sweet and rich, as coconut milk, flour and sugar are the main ingredients.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Thanks to early Chinese migrants, Chinese cuisine ranges from Cantonese to Teochew to Hokkien to Hainanese to Szechuan cooking. There's also Penang Nyonya food, which is a combination of Chinese, Malay and some Thai. The Penang variety of Nyonya food, apparently, is different from the Malaccan or even Singaporean versions. For a touch of luxury, try a five or ten-course Chinese meal at one of the restaurants or hotels in town.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Indian cuisine goes by two names generally – banana leaf rice and nasi kandar. Both are hot and savoury with rice being the main staple, and a menu from north Indian tandoori and nan bread, to South Indian rice and chapati.

Nasi kandar is famously popular with Penangites, and many restaurants selling it are well known not only to those on the island but those in other states as well. It is quite common to find people from other states detouring to Penang just to stop for a meal of nasi kandar before continuing on their journey elsewhere...

Indulge! Savour!

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah © All rights reserved
Updated: 6 March 2019


The exotic hairy fruit called the rambutan

Penang rambutan © Adrian Cheah

In the vast range of local fruits available in Penang, the rambutan is a popular choice among Penangites. Rambutans are tied up in bunches of 50 or 100 each and sold at roadside stalls, at marketplaces and by some fruit vendors when in season. Prices vary according to size and quality. Rambutans sold in Penang are always fresh as they come straight from the local orchards.

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Belacan, an integral ingredient in local cuisine

belacan © Adrian Cheah

Anyone who has paid attention to local cuisine can safely hazard a guess that Penangites, and Malaysians for that matter, have a predilection for pungent foods! Call it full-flavoured, aromatic, spicy or downright nasty, Malaysian cuisine boasts more pungent varieties than arguably any other country in the world. This piquant character manifests itself in various forms, in fresh fruits (durian and jackfruit), in condiments (budu), preserves (cincaluk and tempoyak) and the innocuous-looking belacan or shrimp paste. The last item is as indispensable to Malaysian cooking as herbs are to Italian cuisine or soya sauce to Chinese. Why some purists go as far as to declare that your 'Malaysianess' hinges on whether or not you like belacan!

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Penang’s all-time favourite Char Koay Teow

Penang Char Koay Teow © Adrian Cheah

I have always wondered where the all-so-famous Penang Char Koay Teow came from? Who were its original creators? Some believe that Char Koay Teow (‘fried flat noodles in Teochew) was first sold by Chinese fishermen, farmers and cockle-gatherers on the island who moonlighted as Char Koay Teow hawkers in the evening to supplement their income.

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Coconut water – the ultimate elixir for the tropics

Coconut © Adrian Cheah

As we made our way back from Pantai Kerachut on a sweltering afternoon, my companions and I found ourselves pondering over the ideal beverage to satiate our thirst after an arduous hike, steering clear of the usual carbonated options. After careful consideration, we unanimously opted for one of Mother Nature's marvels – the refreshing, locally abundant coconut water in Penang. With a newfound resolve, we swiftly made our way to the nearest nondescript roadside stall that offered this delightful thirst-buster, located just beyond the exit of the national park in Teluk Bahang.

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Raikan Rasa at The Tamarra – a seaside Ramadhan buffet like no other

Raikan Rasa at The Tamarra © Adrian Cheah

Bayu Nusantara berbisik rindu,
Aroma dapur menjemput pulang,
Hidangan Tamarra kasih bersatu,
Raikan Rasa kenangan gemilang.

How do I gather the right words to capture a feeling so intrinsic, a memory so deep-rooted – one stirred awake and propelled forward through a dining adventure at Tamarra? An experience woven from taste and time, where every flavour carries echoes of the past, every aroma rekindles longing and every bite whispers love. Even after the final spoonful, after the last note of Getaran Jiwa fades, after the cool sea breeze traces its farewell across my face – the night lingers, golden and etched upon the heart.

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Kak Ayu’s Quallys Syok Segarnya – a culinary love letter to all

Quallys Syok Segarnya © Adrian Cheah

Quallys Syok Segarnya is more than just a restaurant – it is a love letter to Malaysia’s culinary heritage. It embraces the simplicity of fresh ingredients and deep-rooted cooking tradition while adapting to the evolving tastes of today’s diners. Here, the essence of "masakan kampung" (traditional Malay village cooking) shines through, bringing rich, "sedaplicious" flavours to every dish. Malay cuisine, with its harmonious blend of spices, herbs and regional influences, revolves around rice – served with curries, sambal, seafood and meats. It is often enjoyed by hand for an authentic, finger-licking-good experience. At the heart of Quallys is Yusniza Ayu Yusoff, fondly known as Kak Ayu, whose warm, heartfelt approach captures the true spirit of cooking with love.

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Luffa by Irama Dining, Penang's new dining gem at The Leith Hotel

Luffa © Adrian Cheah

I am thrilled to share my thoughts on Luffa, a new gem nestled within the elegant setting of The Leith Hotel, located directly across from Penang's iconic Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. Co-owned by the Irama Dining Group, The Leith Hotel reflects the same dedication to excellence that has become synonymous with the group.

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Nostalgic Delights: A Seaside Ramadhan Buffet at The Tamarra

Nostalgia Warisan at The Tamarra © Adrian Cheah

Come, come, whoever you are.
Wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving.
It doesn't matter.
Ours is not a caravan of despair.
Come, even if you have broken your vow a thousand times.
Come, yet again, come, come.

In the spirit of these timeless words by the revered poet Rumi embraces all who seek warmth, hospitality and inclusivity. Likewise, The Tamarra extends its arms wide to welcome you. Here, within the embrace of its Ramadhan buffet – "Nostalgia Warisan by The Sea", every dish, every aroma, every shared moment around the table, holds within it a tale of love, heritage and cherished memories waiting to be uncovered. As you step into the award-winning restaurant, you are invited to embark on a nostalgic culinary journey amidst the comforting embrace of tradition.

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Senandung Rasa by the Sea at The Tamarra – a Ramadan feast for all

The Tamarra © Adrian Cheah

"Senandung Rasa by the Sea" at The Tamarra returns this Ramadan for an indulgent celebration filled with a lavish spread of modern Malay gastronomic delights. For an experience unlike any other, get ready to explore hearty yet nostalgic flavours of the Malay archipelago. Highlights from the extensive buffet spread include Kambing Golek (spit-roasted lamb), Nasi Kerabu Udang Lagenda (mixed herbal rice) and Gulai Ketam Nenas Tok Ma (flower crab curry) as well as live action stalls and a spread of over 100 items, not to mention a colourful ensemble of tempting desserts.

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My unforgettable birthday dinner at The Tamarra

The Tamarra © Adrian Cheah

I turned 55 this year, travelled 55 times around the sun, clocking a distance of 8,228 million kilometres. Although moving at breakneck speed of 1,670 kilometres per hour through space, my precious life on earth seems to crawl at a much slower pace.

I look up at the night starry sky and marvel at the millions of miles I have travelled across the universe. I close my eyes and look within and marvel as well at more than half a century of wisdom and experience I have encountered. I am truly blessed!

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The Tamarra takes off this Ramadan

Tamarra © Adrian Cheah

The Tamarra is the latest addition to Shad Kamarulzaman's string of restaurants which include Irama Dining, Sutera and Lagenda Cafe. Not resting on his laurels, he brings yet another inspiring dining destination to Penang, this time serving modern Malay gastronomy. However, for the month of Ramadan, The Tamarra is proud to present "Senandung Rasa by the Sea".

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Sutera Restaurant's oriental offerings take flight

Sutera Restaurant © Adrian Cheah

When you witness the beginning of a new venture, it is with optimism. Success will follow suit if everything is organised well and executed to the best of one's abilities.

The launch of Sutera Restaurant holds great potential with a winning menu, scrumptious offerings and eye-arresting presentations. The conducive dining deco even has a beautiful mural of a larger-than-life peacock perch on a branch overlooking its diners.

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