Great Penang

Adrian Cheah loves Penang. He brings you interesting insights into the UNESCO heritage city of George Town where he calls home.

Great Penang © Adrian Cheah


A pre-birthday luncheon at Auntie Gaik Lean Old School Eatery

Auntie Gaik Lean; photo © Adrian Cheah

“The only reward of virtue is virtue; the only way to have a friend is to be one.” —Ralph Waldo Emerson, Friendship, Essays: First Series (1841)

So often, people say they want good friends, yet forget the underlying truth that friendship begins inwardly. It requires generosity of spirit, self-awareness, and the ability to show up without expectation. When insecurity, entitlement, or self-interest takes centre stage, genuine friendships struggle to take root. Emerson’s words remind us that friendship is not something to be acquired, but something to be practised.

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Mum’s Chio Hua – the golden Nyonya jelly our family treasures

Nyonya jelly © Adrian Cheah

Looking back on my childhood, the memories that stand out most vividly are often tied to our kitchen – a space where I first discovered my love for cooking. My mother shared so much with me in that lively corner of our home and those lessons remain close to my heart. Whether it was preparing fiery sambal babi or crafting the crunchy, glistening Nyonya jelly known as chio hua (cheok hwa), her guidance filled my childhood with joy and the ho-chiak-ness of good food.

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Nyonya Kuih Bangkit with a difference. Why not?

kuih bangkit © Adrian Cheah

Nyonya Kuih Bangkit is a classic Chinese New Year cookie, cherished alongside favourites like Kuih Kapit, peanut cookies and pineapple tarts. Loved by Penangites, this petite, animal-shaped treat captivates with its sweet pandan fragrance that greets you at the first bite. Its slightly crisp outer layer encases a powdery softness that melts in the mouth.

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The art of making the perfect Kuih Kapit (love letters)

Kuih Kapit © Adrian Cheah

Some believe that oysters hold aphrodisiac qualities, while others claim that the tomato, known as pomme d'amour – French for "love apple" – is the true food of love. In Penang, however, there is a delicacy that, despite its romantic name, is neither an aphrodisiac nor a token of affection. Yet those who have tasted it often wax lyrical over its aromatic, sweet and lemak goodness. The "love letter", more commonly known as Kuih Kapit, is a popular favourite, particularly during the Chinese New Year.

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Savoury Or Kuih (steamed yam cake) recipe from Lily Wong

Or kuih (yam cake) © Adrian Cheah

"Yam", as it is often known in Penang, actually refers to taro. While "yam" encompasses various plant species in the Dioscorea genus with edible tubers, Or Kuih specifically uses taro. For local authenticity, I'll stick with "yam". Or Kuih, a steamed yam cake, is a lovely local delicacy topped with aromatic shallot oil, fried dried shrimps, crispy shallots, spring onions and diced chillies. Traditionally served with chilli sauce or "tnee cniau" (sweet sauce) on the side, this dish embodies comfort food. A perfect slice of yam cake should be aromatic and tender, with yam chunks that melt in the mouth.

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Kebaya – inventive pan-Asian haute cuisine

Kebaya © Adrian Cheah

The first time I sampled Christopher Ong’s cooking was at a Chinese New Year open house he held many years back. Lam Mee was on the lineup and although it is an uncomplicated dish to prepare, a flavourful stock was necessary to serve up a delicious bowl. With a dollop of sambal belacan on the side, I relish the entire bowl with gusto that day. It was wonderful and had just the right combination of everything a good bowl of Lam Mee would call for. Chris also highlighted that I was eating off an authentic antique Peranakan blue and white batik bowl.

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Colourful onde onde ubi keledek recipe from Madam Lily Wong

Onde onde © Adrian Cheah

Nyonya kuih are colourful Asian sweet cakes that are popularly served for breakfast and afternoon tea and as snacks any time of the day. The selections are many and varied, available at morning markets and food courts throughout Penang.  One such type is the explosively delicious onde onde. 

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Otak-otak, a savory parcel of fish custard

Otak-otak © Adrian Cheah

Unwrap a parcel of otak-otak and you will catch a waft of the spicy, delicious egg-like fish custard that is usually served with other dishes common in a Nyonya household. Otak-okak can also be eaten on its own or as an appetiser or even with bread. This popular dish is available at Nyonya restaurants, some food courts and wet markets, as well as a common spread in “Economy Rice” stalls.

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Make your own Acar Awak (spicy mixed vegetable pickle)

Acar Awak © Adrian Cheah

A crunchy and aromatic dish concocted of mixed vegetables infused in a rich and spicy gravy garnished with crushed groundnuts. This dish acts as an appetiser in any meal. It adds zest to a plain dish of 'economy' fried bee hoon.

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Appetising Nyonya Acar Hu (Nyonya pickled silver mullet)

Nyonya Acar Hu © Adrian Cheah

Nyonya Acar Hu is one of my favourite acar options that can truly whet one's appetite. Mum has been making this savoury delight for as long as I can remember. Its appetising flavours can be appreciated with a plate of steamed white rice.

This dish is like no other, combining a beautiful balance of sweet and sour flavours, spiced with cabai burung (bird’s eye chillies), ginger and of course, fresh turmeric. Other ingredients like shallots and garlic cloves are little preserved nuggets that complement the fish well. The deep-fried fish, given ample time to develop in the fresh turmeric vinaigrette are extremely tasty and tantalising. This is a dish that will wake up all your senses.

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The culinary legacy of the Nyonyas

Nyonya cooking © Adrian Cheah

Historical records suggest that when Chinese migrants arrived in then Malaya, they brought with them several culinary styles, among them Hakka, Hainan, Foochow, Canton and others. One style of cooking which metamorphosed out of these 'prototypes' is known today as Nyonya or Peranakan cuisine, a combination of Chinese and Malay flavours.

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Tono Izakaya Penang – sake, skewers, sushi and more

Tono Izakaya Penang © Adrian Cheah

Penang, a haven for food lovers, serves up a sedap-licious escapade like no other, from street food stalls brimming with local delights to high-end fine dining restaurants, not forgetting cosy patisseries and bustling pubs. But when it comes to an izakaya, there is something inherently different – a taste of Japan served with a side of its rich cultural essence, much like how an Irish pub offers more than just a pint.

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Uo Shin Penang—Worth Beating the Queue For

Uo Shin Penang; Photos © Adrian Cheah

I have often noticed the crowd waiting to get into Uo Shin on Jalan Macalister whenever I passed by. So when my daughter Jean and I decided to try it for the first time, we thought it best to go early. We arrived around noon, just as lunch was getting started, and were comfortably seated before the crowd began to build.

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La Vie en Mei Gui Café—Between Buckingham and Penang

La Vie en Mei Gui Café; Photos © Adrian Cheah

Walking into La Vie en Mei Gui Café with my daughter for lunch brought back a rather unexpected memory. At the entrance, you are greeted by Prince William and Kate Middleton, while upstairs at the landing, Queen Elizabeth II stands in regal splendour. Chandeliers hang above, grand floral arrangements fill the rooms, and gilded details sit against lush crimson. British memorabilia completes the setting, with every corner arranged almost like a picture postcard. John H'ng has certainly embraced the theme wholeheartedly.

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Comfort Food Done Right At Gilda

Gilda; photos © Adrian Cheah

On Soo Hong Lane, one of George Town's narrowest heritage lanes, stands Gilda, a modern neo-bistro that has captured the hearts of diners with its honest cooking and warm hospitality. After spending an evening there, I realised that the true charm of Gilda goes beyond its striking setting and thoughtfully crafted menu. It is found in the people behind it.

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Hema Hema: A Lovely Scoop in the World of Artisan Ice Cream

Hema Hema Ice Cream; photos © Adrian Cheah

On most afternoons along Campbell Street, a queue often snakes into a pre-war Straits Eclectic shophouse. In Penang, where people are notoriously discerning about food, queues usually mean one of two things: hype or the real deal. Hema Hema, established in 2022, has been around long enough for reputation to settle—and in this case, it feels like the latter.

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An "Oishii" Treat at Buu Buu Dessert Club

Buu Buu Dessert Club; photos © Adrian Cheah

One of the most fascinating things that struck me when I was in Japan in the autumn of 2012 had to be its extraordinary dessert culture. In Nara, my family and I witnessed Nakatanidou showcasing the ancient art of mochi pounding, where skilled artisans rhythmically transformed steaming glutinous rice into soft, delicate confections with astonishing speed and precision. Watching the craftsmen work was mesmerising, a beautiful reminder that in Japan, desserts are often deeply intertwined with tradition, craftsmanship, and theatre.

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Three-course Lunch at Indigo Restaurant, Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion

Indigo © Adrian Cheah

LLocated on the first floor of the Blue Mansion, Indigo restaurant is inspired by Cheong Fatt Tze himself, offering a fusion of East and West. My friend and I had the three-course set meal priced at RM75++ per person, available only for lunch. We selected one dish for each course.

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Thai cuisine at Bukit Genting Hill Leisure Park and Restaurant

Bukit Genting © Adrian Cheah

As long as the meal is not meant to take centre stage, I highly recommend a trip up to Bukit Genting. Here, one can enjoy al fresco dining with amazing views of the Straits of Malacca and the South Channel. Surrounded by forested hills, the breathtaking vistas of the rustic village of Balik Pulau below come complete with paddy fields. The view at sunset when the sun dips into the ocean is even more spectacular!

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Hachiban Izakaya, more than just a typical Japanese pub

Hachiban Izakaya © Adrian Cheah

Located at Jalan Kelawai, Hachiban Izakaya serves more than just sake and pub grub. "Hachiban" means "No. 8" and "Izakaya" stands for a casual venue to chill out after work for drinks, similar to that of an Irish pub or a Spanish tapas bar.

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Kazumasa Japanese Cuisine, marked with quality ingredients and artistry

Kazumasa © Adrian Cheah

With a giant crab scaling the facade of the building at Fettes Park, it is quite difficult not to miss Kazumasa Japanese Cuisine. It is here that the omakase menu was first brought to the shores of Penang. Besides the omakase and ala carte possibilities, set lunches are also available.

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