Great Penang

Adrian Cheah loves Penang. He brings you interesting insights into the UNESCO heritage city of George Town where he calls home.

Great Penang © Adrian Cheah


Mum’s Chio Hua – the golden Nyonya jelly our family treasures

Nyonya jelly © Adrian Cheah

Looking back on my childhood, the memories that stand out most vividly are often tied to our kitchen – a space where I first discovered my love for cooking. My mother shared so much with me in that lively corner of our home and those lessons remain close to my heart. Whether it was preparing fiery sambal babi or crafting the crunchy, glistening Nyonya jelly known as chio hua (cheok hwa), her guidance filled my childhood with joy and the ho-chiak-ness of good food.

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Nyonya Kuih Bangkit with a difference. Why not?

kuih bangkit © Adrian Cheah

Nyonya Kuih Bangkit is a classic Chinese New Year cookie, cherished alongside favourites like Kuih Kapit, peanut cookies and pineapple tarts. Loved by Penangites, this petite, animal-shaped treat captivates with its sweet pandan fragrance that greets you at the first bite. Its slightly crisp outer layer encases a powdery softness that melts in the mouth.

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The art of making the perfect Kuih Kapit (love letters)

Kuih Kapit © Adrian Cheah

Some believe that oysters hold aphrodisiac qualities, while others claim that the tomato, known as pomme d'amour – French for "love apple" – is the true food of love. In Penang, however, there is a delicacy that, despite its romantic name, is neither an aphrodisiac nor a token of affection. Yet those who have tasted it often wax lyrical over its aromatic, sweet and lemak goodness. The "love letter", more commonly known as Kuih Kapit, is a popular favourite, particularly during the Chinese New Year.

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Savoury Or Kuih (steamed yam cake) recipe from Lily Wong

Or kuih (yam cake) © Adrian Cheah

"Yam", as it is often known in Penang, actually refers to taro. While "yam" encompasses various plant species in the Dioscorea genus with edible tubers, Or Kuih specifically uses taro. For local authenticity, I'll stick with "yam". Or Kuih, a steamed yam cake, is a lovely local delicacy topped with aromatic shallot oil, fried dried shrimps, crispy shallots, spring onions and diced chillies. Traditionally served with chilli sauce or "tnee cniau" (sweet sauce) on the side, this dish embodies comfort food. A perfect slice of yam cake should be aromatic and tender, with yam chunks that melt in the mouth.

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Kebaya – inventive pan-Asian haute cuisine

Kebaya © Adrian Cheah

The first time I sampled Christopher Ong’s cooking was at a Chinese New Year open house he held many years back. Lam Mee was on the lineup and although it is an uncomplicated dish to prepare, a flavourful stock was necessary to serve up a delicious bowl. With a dollop of sambal belacan on the side, I relish the entire bowl with gusto that day. It was wonderful and had just the right combination of everything a good bowl of Lam Mee would call for. Chris also highlighted that I was eating off an authentic antique Peranakan blue and white batik bowl.

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Colourful onde onde ubi keledek recipe from Madam Lily Wong

Onde onde © Adrian Cheah

Nyonya kuih are colourful Asian sweet cakes that are popularly served for breakfast and afternoon tea and as snacks any time of the day. The selections are many and varied, available at morning markets and food courts throughout Penang.  One such type is the explosively delicious onde onde. 

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Otak-otak, a savory parcel of fish custard

Otak-otak © Adrian Cheah

Unwrap a parcel of otak-otak and you will catch a waft of the spicy, delicious egg-like fish custard that is usually served with other dishes common in a Nyonya household. Otak-okak can also be eaten on its own or as an appetiser or even with bread. This popular dish is available at Nyonya restaurants, some food courts and wet markets, as well as a common spread in “Economy Rice” stalls.

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Make your own Acar Awak (spicy mixed vegetable pickle)

Acar Awak © Adrian Cheah

A crunchy and aromatic dish concocted of mixed vegetables infused in a rich and spicy gravy garnished with crushed groundnuts. This dish acts as an appetiser in any meal. It adds zest to a plain dish of 'economy' fried bee hoon.

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Appetising Nyonya Acar Hu (Nyonya pickled silver mullet)

Nyonya Acar Hu © Adrian Cheah

Nyonya Acar Hu is one of my favourite acar options that can truly whet one's appetite. Mum has been making this savoury delight for as long as I can remember. Its appetising flavours can be appreciated with a plate of steamed white rice.

This dish is like no other, combining a beautiful balance of sweet and sour flavours, spiced with cabai burung (bird’s eye chillies), ginger and of course, fresh turmeric. Other ingredients like shallots and garlic cloves are little preserved nuggets that complement the fish well. The deep-fried fish, given ample time to develop in the fresh turmeric vinaigrette are extremely tasty and tantalising. This is a dish that will wake up all your senses.

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The culinary legacy of the Nyonyas

Nyonya cooking © Adrian Cheah

Historical records suggest that when Chinese migrants arrived in then Malaya, they brought with them several culinary styles, among them Hakka, Hainan, Foochow, Canton and others. One style of cooking which metamorphosed out of these 'prototypes' is known today as Nyonya or Peranakan cuisine, a combination of Chinese and Malay flavours.

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An "Oishii" Treat at Buu Buu Dessert Club

Buu Buu Dessert Club; photos © Adrian Cheah

One of the most fascinating things that struck me when I was in Japan in the autumn of 2012 had to be its extraordinary dessert culture. In Nara, my family and I witnessed Nakatanidou showcasing the ancient art of mochi pounding, where skilled artisans rhythmically transformed steaming glutinous rice into soft, delicate confections with astonishing speed and precision. Watching the craftsmen work was mesmerising, a beautiful reminder that in Japan, desserts are often deeply intertwined with tradition, craftsmanship, and theatre.

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Three-course Lunch at Indigo Restaurant, Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion

Indigo © Adrian Cheah

LLocated on the first floor of the Blue Mansion, Indigo restaurant is inspired by Cheong Fatt Tze himself, offering a fusion of East and West. My friend and I had the three-course set meal priced at RM75++ per person, available only for lunch. We selected one dish for each course.

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Thai cuisine at Bukit Genting Hill Leisure Park and Restaurant

Bukit Genting © Adrian Cheah

As long as the meal is not meant to take centre stage, I highly recommend a trip up to Bukit Genting. Here, one can enjoy al fresco dining with amazing views of the Straits of Malacca and the South Channel. Surrounded by forested hills, the breathtaking vistas of the rustic village of Balik Pulau below come complete with paddy fields. The view at sunset when the sun dips into the ocean is even more spectacular!

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Hachiban Izakaya, more than just a typical Japanese pub

Hachiban Izakaya © Adrian Cheah

Located at Jalan Kelawai, Hachiban Izakaya serves more than just sake and pub grub. "Hachiban" means "No. 8" and "Izakaya" stands for a casual venue to chill out after work for drinks, similar to that of an Irish pub or a Spanish tapas bar.

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Kazumasa Japanese Cuisine, marked with quality ingredients and artistry

Kazumasa © Adrian Cheah

With a giant crab scaling the facade of the building at Fettes Park, it is quite difficult not to miss Kazumasa Japanese Cuisine. It is here that the omakase menu was first brought to the shores of Penang. Besides the omakase and ala carte possibilities, set lunches are also available.

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Dozo – Japanese avant-garde cuisine arrives at the isle of Penang

Dozo, Penang © Adrian Cheah

You can now add Dozo to your list of Japanese restaurants to dine in Penang. It opened its doors on 1 August 2020 serving fine Japanese cuisine with an avant-garde flair.

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Le Venue revisited (many times over)

Le Venue © Adrian Cheah

When it comes to good food, Penangites are spoiled for choices, from hawker fare to fine dining cuisine. Having said that, to mark a memorable evening, one would still have to ponder and think of an appropriate venue. Some restaurants have introduced fusion food that does not make sense while others have to implement nouveau cuisine with hardly anything on the plate and everything on the bill. Being prudent with their spending, Penangites would feel disgusted if they leave half full, having to stop at a nearby coffeeshop thereafter for a plate of sar hor fun. I would always assume that such places would not survive the tough clientele on the island, nevertheless although many have fallen, there are those who have managed to thrive. There are also many restaurants that serve mediocre meals that are simply forgettable.

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Sublime omakase experience at Dozo Penang

Dozo Penang © Adrian Cheah

"Omakase" is the short term used for "omakase shimasu" which means "I will leave it to you (chef)". It gives creative freedom to the chef to conjure up an unforgettable culinary experience. This style of dining is best indulged with an open mind, a willingness to try new experiences, leaving all biases aside.

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Upgrade to a 3-course set meal at Déjeuner Bistro Penang

Lumiére Restaurant; photos © Adrian Cheah

Choosing a restaurant for Mother’s Day was a decision I approached with care. The luncheon would bring together three generations of my family, from my 92-year-old Mum to my 23-year-old daughter. I wanted a place where everyone would feel comfortable, and where the meal itself would be worthy of the occasion.

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The Chronicles of Penang at Umi Umi’s Immersive Dinner Theatre

Umi Umi Penang; photos © Adrian Cheah

During my month-long holiday in London in 1996, I made a point of seeking out its theatres, drawn by spellbinding musicals like The Phantom of the Opera, Blood Brothers, Oliver!, Miss Saigon and more. What captivated me, time and again, was the convergence of creative energy, brilliant collaboration, and the art of storytelling brought to life through music, lights, and heart. The moment the curtain rises, something shifts. Live performance, in its immediacy, propels you almost instantaneously into another realm.

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JiangHu Edo – an exquisite 10-course Japanese fine dining experience in George Town

JiangHu Edo © Adrian Cheah

JiangHu Edo offers a tantalising culinary experience using quality ingredients to accentuate flavours and textures that celebrate fine cuisine. The visual presentation of the courses was a masterful eye-arresting feast. Nothing was left to chance and everything was skilfully curated into an art form.

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