The best laksa in Balik Pulau

Penang laksa is extremely popular, especially among locals for its wonderful balance of spicy, sweet and sour flavours. This is strictly a hawker treat, as one is unlikely to find great laksa in a fancy restaurant.
Adrian Cheah loves Penang. He brings you interesting insights into the UNESCO heritage city of George Town where he calls home.


Penang laksa is extremely popular, especially among locals for its wonderful balance of spicy, sweet and sour flavours. This is strictly a hawker treat, as one is unlikely to find great laksa in a fancy restaurant.

This is something I have recently noticed about Uncle Ah Guan. He has always been great fun to chat with but on my recent visit one afternoon, although he was smiling and friendly, he was not his usual chatty self. I realised that age is catching up and grinding over the stove in the scorching tropical heat, day in and day out, which cannot be an easy task for him these days.

Yes, this blue-coloured rice dish from Mews Café that is simply delicious also titillates the senses. It looks amazing, smells appetising and tasted heavenly as well.

Thanks to its unique cultural mix, food lovers in Malaysia get to enjoy a mouth-watering blend of various flavours in their victuals (or makan-makan in local speak). Think sambal belacan with wantan noodles, Nyonya curries, Malay char koay teow and the ever-popular and versatile nasi goreng or fried rice. It can be eaten any time of the day and is found on the menu of any Penang or Malaysian eatery, from street vendors to five-star hotels.

Penang Assam Laksa is amongst the best-known and loved hawker fare in Penang. A bowl of steamed spaghetti-sized rice vermicelli is first generously garnished with finely sliced vegetables including onions, cucumber, red chillis, pineapple, lettuce, mint and pink bunga kantan (ginger buds).

I have always wondered where the all-so-famous Penang Char Koay Teow came from? Who were its original creators? Some believe that Char Koay Teow (‘fried flat noodles in Teochew) was first sold by Chinese fishermen, farmers and cockle-gatherers on the island who moonlighted as Char Koay Teow hawkers in the evening to supplement their income.

In Penang, "oh chien" (in Hokkien) means "fried oysters" but it commonly refers to the oyster omelette dish. There are many varieties available in Malaysia and even more so throughout Southeast Asia, China and Taiwan.
The main ingredients for Penang-style oh chien include a batter (tapioca flour, rice flour or a mixture of both), chopped chives, eggs, fresh oysters and a special blend of seasoning. The dish is usually stir-fried over high heat and served with a garlic chilli sauce on the side. Some stalls garnish their dish with coriander leaves, adding more aroma to the omelette.

Quallys Syok Segarnya is more than just a restaurant – it is a love letter to Malaysia’s culinary heritage. It embraces the simplicity of fresh ingredients and deep-rooted cooking tradition while adapting to the evolving tastes of today’s diners. Here, the essence of "masakan kampung" (traditional Malay village cooking) shines through, bringing rich, "sedaplicious" flavours to every dish. Malay cuisine, with its harmonious blend of spices, herbs and regional influences, revolves around rice – served with curries, sambal, seafood and meats. It is often enjoyed by hand for an authentic, finger-licking-good experience. At the heart of Quallys is Yusniza Ayu Yusoff, fondly known as Kak Ayu, whose warm, heartfelt approach captures the true spirit of cooking with love.

The most popular types of ketupat found in Malaysia are ketupat nasi (made with plain rice) and ketupat daun palas (made with glutinous rice). While both varieties are wrapped in palm leaves and then boiled, they use different types of leaves: ketupat nasi is typically wrapped in young coconut leaves (daun kelapa muda), whereas ketupat daun palas is enclosed in Licuala palm leaves (daun palas). It is said that ketupat daun palas originated from the northern states – Penang, Kedah and Perlis – while ketupat nasi is more popular in Perak.

Kuih Bahulu (also known as Kuih Baulu or Kuih Bolu) is a perennial favourite among Malaysians of all ages. In Hokkien, it is called Kay Nui Koh. It is a mini light and fluffy sponge cake made from eggs, flour and sugar. It has a slightly crusty outer layer with a soft and fluffy inside, quite similar in taste and texture to a French Madeleine. However, when compared to many western cakes, Kuih Bahulu is much lighter in texture and has a subtle sweetness.

A favourite breakfast dish for most Malaysians is Nasi Lemak – something which transcends the often-tenuous ethnic boundaries in this multi-racial country, as Malays, Indians and Chinese, all love it!

In Penang and across Malaysia the lemang is available all year round. Nonetheless, it has become a special dish during the Hari Raya celebrations – Hari Raya Aidilfitri (Eid al-Fitr) and Hari Raya Aidiladha (Eid al-Adha). Although its preparation seems simple enough, cooking lemang requires an open area with ample ventilation – which is why most people just prefer to buy lemang rather than attempt to make it themselves.

Bayu Nusantara berbisik rindu,
Aroma dapur menjemput pulang,
Hidangan Tamarra kasih bersatu,
Raikan Rasa kenangan gemilang.
How do I gather the right words to capture a feeling so intrinsic, a memory so deep-rooted – one stirred awake and propelled forward through a dining adventure at Tamarra? An experience woven from taste and time, where every flavour carries echoes of the past, every aroma rekindles longing and every bite whispers love. Even after the final spoonful, after the last note of Getaran Jiwa fades, after the cool sea breeze traces its farewell across my face – the night lingers, golden and etched upon the heart.

Being a popular dish among Penangites and Malaysians at large, roti canai or roti paratha is a flaky, moreish flatbread enjoyed any time of the day. Made with flour, water, salt, a little sugar and fat, the mixture is kneaded into a dough and allowed to rest. It is then divided and rolled into palm-size balls. The rested dough ball is stretched; held at a corner, it is then flung in the air onto the oiled work surface twice or thrice, stretching it paper thin before folding to obtain a layered texture.

The key signature in traditional Malay cuisine is definitely the generous use of local herbs, spices and belacan (shrimp paste). Santan (coconut milk) is a common addition to impart a creamy texture to Malay dishes. In Penang and the northern states of Malaysia, Malay cooking has further integrated Thai flavours. Meats and seafood are usually marinated with a special blend of herbs and spices before being cooked. Vegetables are often stir-fried and some eaten raw, always with sambal belacan. I love Malay dishes because of their strong, spicy and aromatic oomph. For an authentic Malay feast, visit Lagenda Café.

Penang is truly a food paradise that has an extensive culinary scene, offering diverse delights from various cuisines, including delicious Malay fare. Irama Dining stands out as a culinary revelation for me. It brilliantly blends the bold, aromatic Malay cooking style with the vibrant flavours of local herbs and spices. The presentation of dishes is impeccable, complemented by the understated elegance of the dining space.

When you witness the beginning of a new venture, it is with optimism. Success will follow suit if everything is organised well and executed to the best of one's abilities.
The launch of Sutera Restaurant holds great potential with a winning menu, scrumptious offerings and eye-arresting presentations. The conducive dining deco even has a beautiful mural of a larger-than-life peacock perch on a branch overlooking its diners.

I am thrilled to share my thoughts on Luffa, a new gem nestled within the elegant setting of The Leith Hotel, located directly across from Penang's iconic Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. Co-owned by the Irama Dining Group, The Leith Hotel reflects the same dedication to excellence that has become synonymous with the group.

I turned 55 this year, travelled 55 times around the sun, clocking a distance of 8,228 million kilometres. Although moving at breakneck speed of 1,670 kilometres per hour through space, my precious life on earth seems to crawl at a much slower pace.
I look up at the night starry sky and marvel at the millions of miles I have travelled across the universe. I close my eyes and look within and marvel as well at more than half a century of wisdom and experience I have encountered. I am truly blessed!

Come, come, whoever you are.
Wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving.
It doesn't matter.
Ours is not a caravan of despair.
Come, even if you have broken your vow a thousand times.
Come, yet again, come, come.
In the spirit of these timeless words by the revered poet Rumi embraces all who seek warmth, hospitality and inclusivity. Likewise, The Tamarra extends its arms wide to welcome you. Here, within the embrace of its Ramadhan buffet – "Nostalgia Warisan by The Sea", every dish, every aroma, every shared moment around the table, holds within it a tale of love, heritage and cherished memories waiting to be uncovered. As you step into the award-winning restaurant, you are invited to embark on a nostalgic culinary journey amidst the comforting embrace of tradition.